nicolakgreen: (Default)
[personal profile] nicolakgreen posting in [community profile] exercise_every_day
That surfing trip I took was amazing. I expected it to be challenging, phsyically because I have only been active for a couple of months and mentally because the whole thing (going abroad, living in a tent, being with a group of people I don't know 24/7) was so far outside my comfort zone. I expected to be rubbish at it. What I never expected was that it would be so much fun.

And this post got long, so I cut.

The actual surfing I was indeed rubbish at, but I loved every second of it (with the exception of the second day when the waves were strong and I got dumped into the sea bed pretty hard, hit on the head by my board and properly freaked out. I went and sat on the beach to catch my breath and watching the waves just got worse and worse to the point I had to go up the beach and have a couple of cigarettes to even my breathing out and face away from the ocean in the end). The day after that we went to a much calmer beach and after some initial trepidation I got right back into the swing of it, and improved my confidence so much that the next time the waves got that heavy I just enjoyed playing with them rather than trying to fight them. I didn't manage to stand up, but I did get my feet onto the board in a crouch for a couple of seconds, and I think I would have stood up on the last day but there was a ridiculously massive storm the last night and we didn't manage to get out for an early surf before we left because the weather was still far too bad. We went surfing in the rain the last day we surfed, which was not the most appealing idea, but turned out to be lots of fun.

As well as the surfing we hired bikes one day and rode around a nearby lake and through the forest - cycling is so much more fun without hills! We also had an hour and a half yoga session on the beach one morning - that was sublime. The sound of the waves as a backdrop was beautiful, and the sand made a great excuse for not being able to hold any postures I couldn't do - it really is unstable stuff! It was my first session with an instructor and having her to correct my postures was so helpful.

The food we ate was amazing, the stuff they managed to produce at camp on a tiny stove in a tent was unbelievable, and we went out for lunches and dinners a few times, had the most delicious ice cream too.

The people I met were inspiring and friendly, such a variety. I was the least fit and oldest there, but there were a couple of girls in their early thirties - one very fit who climbs mountains and goes on expeditions and such in her spare time, the other less active. They were friends who used to work together and had come to the camp together. There were another two girls who were german - one was writing an article about the camp and her friend had come along as photographer. (You can see me in the blue top in the yoga photo, and I think that's me on the right in the last photo, the day we went to Biarritz. I can't tell which one I am in the photo where we're all in the water , but I'm in there somewhere! I got the sunset massage too, but that's not me in the picture.)They were both probably mid twenties and much more active - regulars at yoga and surfboarding. Then there were the two girls who ran the camp, endlessly encouraging and so friendly. And lastly our two surf instructors were also both in their early twenties and couldn't have been more patient or encouraging, and so enthusiastic. So I was the only one who didn't know anyone else when I arrived, but they were all really welcoming and I didn't feel alone at all. We have all since hooked up on facebook and will keep in touch.

Things I learnt about my body - just trying to lay flat on the board evenly was very difficult - I have noticed at the gym that my right side is stronger than my left - the sloping barbell makes it obvious! - but the board tips so easily - I always ended up falling to my left. Very interesting and something I think I can work on with yoga?

After 2 hours in the water I felt knackered but exhilarated - such a different feeling to the knackered but glad I did it feeling I get from the gym, cycling or yoga. Is this what rydra_wong gets from climbing? I need to find something I can do more often that leaves me feeling this way.

Date: 2010-09-24 09:49 am (UTC)
muck_a_luck: (Yoga Namaste Two)
From: [personal profile] muck_a_luck
That sounds so amazing! I think the danger for me in a camp like that is I might run away and become some kind of aged surfer/yoga bum, and leave all of RL behind. :) Do you think you will go again?

Date: 2010-09-24 12:22 pm (UTC)
From: [personal profile] alphaviolet
That's inspiring. Thanks for posting!

Date: 2010-09-24 04:24 pm (UTC)
rydra_wong: A woman boulderer lunges up towards the camera for a hold. (climbing -- puccio!!!)
From: [personal profile] rydra_wong
I got dumped into the sea bed pretty hard, hit on the head by my board and properly freaked out.

I'm not surprised! ROCK ON for getting back into it after that -- that must have taken serious courage.

After 2 hours in the water I felt knackered but exhilarated - such a different feeling to the knackered but glad I did it feeling I get from the gym, cycling or yoga. Is this what rydra_wong gets from climbing?

If it's that "wrung out but glowing" feeling, then yep, sounds like it. *g*

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